| So I'm in the process of replacing the valve cover gaskets, and of course while I'm in there I've decided to do an EGR delete. With great effort I finally got the damn thing out!!! Getting the lower plenum off the back left stud with the coolant heater feed pipe, what a PITA POS! 
I was surprised at how much oil was left stuck on top of the engine block. This is a significant fire hazard. The Z engine configuration is not very fire resistant. Usually because one of the fuel lines springs a leak as happened to poor Beachy , but having this amount of oil on top of the engine that doesn't go away can't help. I know it's natural not to worry too much about a valve cover oil leak --I did exactly that this past summer-- but be warned there are consequences. The previous owner of my Z had knock sensor issues and I wonder if the oil pouring over this sensor and connection had anything to do with him doing the workaround. You'll notice there's a ton of white aluminum shrapnel on the heads. This is because I've dremeled the plenum while it was still on to get the complicated angles right and minimize the material I had to cut out. Now I won't have to dig in again when I decide to go for the next injector upgrade. Unfortunately a very small amount of this stuff managed to get all the way down to the valves. My plan is to carefully clean as much of the oil and left over aluminum as possible and then use compressed air to get what's still in the intakes out. Does anyone have any better ideas?
It looks like someone might have used RTV rubber around the injector insulators. Is that good practice or necessary to avoid boost leaks? 
My last fix to the car was to replace the clutch line. Check out what someone had done in order to avoid replacing the clutch line. The clutch line was wrapped in tape. Oh yeah! That'll last?! 
I ended up doing a reverse bleed method using a siphon to recharge the clutch system. This beats the hell out of pumping your leg off (or having a friend pump himself to death). Folks save yourself the trouble by devising some kind of siphon system up front. You can see that a past mechanic as also taken a bite out of the fan shroud (and conveniently left the lower one off) so I think fixing that is in order. 
I've got an aftermarket HOWE radiator but I've noticed that the radiator water outlet pipe is almost always collapsed. Does anyone know why this is happening and what I need to do to fix it? Along with that the lower radiator hose is not clamped down. I take it the OEM hose clamp doesn't work with the HOWE setup. The metal lower pipe keeps banging into the sway bar. Does anyone have any ideas how to secure the lower radiator pipe in a HOWE setup? Anyone have any other recommendations while I'm down in here?
OverZealous (CT)
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Latest pics and HOWE gonna fix that? - 
